Van life is something we have fantasized for a long time. Visions of us all packed inside a van with epic views greeting us round every corner, campfires every night and sunshine streaming in. The reality was somewhat less like a fairytale but every bit as epic!

We were headed for the NC 500 or the North Coast 500 route around the Scottish highlands in the VW T6.1 Campervan, very kindly loaned to us by the guys over at VW UK, big thanks to these guys for helping with this trip. Beginning in Inverness we looped round, adding in Isle of Skye and finishing just shy of Dumfries. We’d knew we were in for a magnificent journey by the amount of recommendations given to us but nothing had quite prepared us for what was to come.

Before living out of our van for the next 12 days we pitched our van in Edinburgh, a happy half way point up to Inverness from Manchester to enjoy a couple of nights in the city. We stayed at the incredible Dunstane Houses in one of the Orkney Suites. With high ceilings, a luxurious bed and roll top copper bath nestled in the bay window we were smitten to say the least. We were invited downstairs for a welcome drink where a whiskey tasting with other guests was in full swing, we had truly entered into a house steeped with Scottish traditions and heritage. It was our pleasure to stay there and we wouldn’t hesitate to go back. A short walk to Edinburgh centre and close to transport links, it’s the ideal spot for a weekend getaway to indulge with top notch home comforts.

Now Our Van Trip Really Begins.

First day we drove up to Inverness, a 3 hour drive. Our first stop over was at the picturesque and fantastically equipped Ardtower Caravan Park. As we were still getting grips with our van we thought it was best to head to a caravan park for our first night so we could test out the electric plug / fill up the fresh water tank / practise getting the bed out etc with fellow van lifers nearby incase we had questions. Oh and we did.

The caravan park was a great pit stop and one we’d recommend especially for those traveling with small children as there is a dedicated baby/toddler changing room with bath tub ( a winner for us as Mila is not a fan of the shower!)

As the sun rose we packed up the van and got on the road, zooming straight up the east side of the Scottish highlands to our next pin point. In our opinion you can’t come on the NC500 route without a quick pit stop at the infamous John O’Groats. A small but picturesque town and of course take an obligatory photo with the iconic sign post.

That done we were off to camp down for the night. Wild camping is allowed in Scotland provided you aren’t on anyones land and there aren’t signposts forbidding it in that area so we pitched up near to the ferry port and hunkered down for the night.

Another day another drive and today we were headed along the north coast of Scotland from east to west, bound for Durness. The weather started out mixed but as we approached the mind blowing Loch Eribol our luck changed and we got to see Scotland at its best. Arriving at Sango Sands we pitched our van overlooking Durness Bay to our left and Sango Sands beach to our right. With not a cloud in sight, green grass carpeting the cliffs and white sands down below we could have been somewhere exotic… until you open the door and feel the fresh air and blustery winds and you remember you’re in the British isles!

Making breakfast in the van every morning was my favourite. We’d all sleep together, Mila would wake first, then the blinds would come up and she’s be in awe of every new landscape she woke up to each day. Her daily “wooooooow” will stay with me forever. We’d turn the van around get a pan of porridge and a fresh pot of coffee going, open the doors and just take one slow minute in the day before the antics and mayhem inevitably started.

Next up was the incredibly scenic drive from Durness down to Ullapool. After grabbing a hot chocolate from the aptly named and must-visit cafe, Cocoa Mountain and a brisk walk along Balnakeil beach to stretch our legs, we got on our way.

We were prepared for the west coast to blow us away from what we’d be told but I don’t think you can be prepared for the immense beauty on this route.

Bend after bend, mountain after mountain, Loch after Loch, the oohs and ahhhs were coming thick and fast! Driving to the soundtrack of Julia Donaldson on Mila’s IPad we welcomed our next lay over. We managed to bag the last spot behind The Royal Hotel where there’s space for 5 camper vans / motorhomes with electric hook up.

We made time to head into Ullapool the next day, a picturesque loch-side town with quaint cafes, pubs and galleries. After lunch we continued down the west coast in the direction of Torridon Estate.

If we thought yesterdays drive was good, and the day before that and the day before that, then I think this one tops them all. We were torn with keeping to our rhythm and route and stopping to take it all in. Wow! What a drive. The weather had continued its sunshine streak, blessing us with blue skies thus far on our trip.

With no set plan as to where we would be pulling up for the night we were getting in the van life spirit and casually picked a spot when and where we fancied. Tonight’s pick was on the banks of Loch Torridon and perhaps our favourite one of all.

After a very windy night, a cloudy and rainy start to our 6th day. The plan was to get over to the Isle of Skye. We opted for the scenic route passing Applecross - a must for Highland Coo’s and the renowned Bealach na Ba pass. A winding single-track road down through the mountains with arduous hairpin turns and narrow straights, not for the fainthearted especially in the rain!

We spent the next morning seeing Portree and looping round the top end of Skye. Such an incredible island and one we could have spent a week on (at least!). We opted to spend a second night here wild camping down by the coast in a small picturesque park up close to Ullinish, a little off the beaten track.

Time to leave the Isle of Skye and head back over to the mainland. We drove for just shy of 3 hours with ample stops along the way. If you have the time always pull over, we had some of our favourite times enjoying the drive, having long coffee breaks and slow lunch lay overs.

The plan was to head to Glen Nevis caravan and camping park, we arrived just before 5pm which means plenty of time to make dinner and let Mila have a run around. The campsite has a play area with Ben Nevis as the back drop! Just WOW!

Today’s P.O.A was to see the Glenfinnan Viaduct (well known as the Harry Potter train track) and Fort William. After reading that the famous steam train only ran in the summer months we didn’t go to the viaduct for a specific time or day. We were therefore thrilled and surprised to walk up to the view point only to hear the train chugging along the tracks moments later! A days we’ll remember for a long time to come!

A quick drive by Fort Willam and we headed for the well known Glencoe valley, such a stunning drive once again!

Tonight’s park up was at Loch Lomond, a campervan / motorhome purpose built car park with toilets and fresh water.

Our trip had almost come to an end. We had one more stop at Hoddom Castle to break up the journey back to Manchester.

If you’re toying with the idea of trying van life or of visiting the NC500 all we would say is - DO IT. Truly one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever been, if we could do it again we’d go in a heart beat! We were told by a fellow van lifer at the start of our trip that you learn by making all the mistakes and it certainly felt like we did that. Looking back we wouldn’t change a thing and now we are even more excited and equipped to go again. Where should be next in a van?

NC 500 & Isle of Skye