Odysseus' Island

Dawn was breaking as we arrived into Ithaca. By catching the Levante ferry across from Kefalonia it meant we were able to bring across our Hertz hire car. A swift 15 minute boat trip and we were alighting.

Day 1

We headed from the boat to our guest house for the next two days, staying at AdAstra Luxury Suites, a family run boutique with view extending over the capital. With four charming suites lovingly decorated and named Romantic, Boheme, Country and Luxury we were staying in Boheme, filled with charm, charisma and the most incredible views of Vathy harbour below.

After a delicious breakfast and the warmest welcome at Ad Astra we headed out of Vathy and to one of the most beautiful beaches on the isle, Aspros Gialos. Known for its underwater exploration suitability and rock formations that lead into the sea, it is an ideal spot for a day in the sun.

From here we drove towards a small seaside town called Frikes, this picturesque port lies deep inside the bay offering shelter to the fishing boats and inhabitants alike. A small yet perfectly formed valley filled with little white houses and a cluster of traditional windmills lining the hilltop.

Next up was Kioni and time for lunch. This fishing village is built amphitheatrically on the slopes of the mountain, harbouring the clearest waters ideal for an after-lunch swim. Dotted around the harbour are a handful of pebbled beaches and clear water coves perfect for a lazy afternoon. After a stroll around the village we headed to Calypso restaurant for yet more saganaki(!!) and a carafe of local wine. We spent the afternoon just sitting and watching life go by, the boats coming and going, locals retiring their fishing nets, it’s hard not to fall in love with this charming seaside town.

We returned to Vathy just in time to catch the sunset, there are plenty of places to dine some recommendations are:

O Batis Restaurant

Rozes Cocktail Bar

We opted for Mills, serving a mix of local and Mediterranean cuisine. We enjoyed a vegetarian tower, pasta for main and panna cotta for dessert whilst the sun set between the mountains. The food, the service and the setting was excellent, a perfect night spent in Vathy.

Day 2

Early the next morning we made our way to Odyssey Outdoor Activities & Odyssey Sea Kayak Club to spend the day in the company of owner and kayak extraordinaire, George. Our day was planned as follows, an hours kayak round the bay of Vathy before paddling out too Gidaki beach followed by a 2 hour hike. Unfortunately for us the sea, even in the protection of the harbour, was unusually choppy due to a storm the night before. Nonetheless, in the safe hands of our guide, we set off.

The water did continue to get worse however George safely guided us to Gidaki beach and boy, were we glad we made it. Content with our morning achievement of kayaking through rough waters, we were in awe of the translucent turquoise waters and mountainous surround Gidaki is famed for. Known as the most popular beach on the island, one where most tourists come to unwind and locals come to party, it’s easy to see how this beach has gained it affirmation.

We left our kayaks and commenced the hike back to Vathy passing dozens of crystal clear coves and secluded beaches that seem to have become synonymous with our trip in both Ithaca and Kefalonia. These secret spots are what makes the islands even more special.

Once back, although slightly worse for wear we didn’t stop there. From our morning kayak we had passed by St. Andrews church, a typically Greek white and blue church set on the edge of a cliff. Noticing a path led to the church from Loutsa Plaža beach we headed here and pursed our second hike of the day. The walk is easy to navigate from the beach just follow the etched out path around the edge of the cliff, roughly 20 minutes later you will have reached St Andrews. A calming place to read a book and admire the island’s coastline.

Our time on the island was sadly over, we headed back across to the port and across to Kefalonia. Read about our time in Kefalonia here.

We wish we had more time in Ithaca to soak up the local life and indescribable beauty this island has to offer, it’s no wonder hundreds of boats choose this island ever year to dock their yacht and sample island life. Although sad to leave we made memories which we can continue another time. If Ithaca wasn’t on your list before, we sure hope it is now. Thanks to Discover Greece for organising and inviting us to this enchanting island.

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